Support
Help with the Open Adaptive Switch iOS app and the switch hardware. Most answers are below; for everything else there is a person on the other end of the email address.
Contact
Email is the fastest route and gets answered by the maintainer. Include what you were doing, what happened instead, and if you have them: the app version, the switch firmware version (both appear in the app), and your iOS version.
contact@openadaptiveswitch.comPrefer working in the open? Open a GitHub issue instead. Issues are public, so the next person with the same problem can find the answer.
Troubleshooting
The app does not find any switches
- The app is a companion to physical Open Adaptive Switch hardware and has nothing to connect to without it. The build guide covers making one.
- Press the switch button once: a sleeping switch does not advertise until it wakes.
- If it still does not appear, the battery may be empty. Plug the switch in over USB-C for a few minutes and try again.
- iOS asks for Bluetooth permission the first time the app scans. If it was declined, turn it on under Settings, Privacy and Security, Bluetooth.
The switch will not connect
- Wake the switch with a press, bring the phone closer, and try again.
- The switch accepts two connections at once, for example the iPad it is paired to plus the app. If two devices are already connected, disconnect one first.
- If connecting keeps failing, press the switch's small reset button once, wait a few seconds, and retry.
I renamed or reflashed the switch and the iPad acts confused
iOS remembers the old identity. On the iPad, Forget Device under Settings, Bluetooth, then pair again through Settings, Accessibility, Switch Control, Switches, Add New Switch, External.
Presses do not reach the iPad
- Confirm the switch is added under Settings, Accessibility, Switch Control, Switches, and that its key is assigned to an action.
- If you changed which key the switch sends, iOS is still listening for the old one. Re-add the switch action so it captures the new key.
- Restart the switch after a rename (the app offers this); the new name is used from the next start.
A firmware update fails or never starts
- Update mode drops the Bluetooth connection on purpose; the switch restarts into its bootloader and the update continues in the updater, not on the settings screen.
- Using Nordic's DFU app: enable its option to scan for legacy DFU devices, and keep packets per notification at 8 or below.
- To back out of update mode without installing anything, press the switch's reset button.
- The fallback that always works: download the .uf2 from the releases page, plug the switch in over USB, double-tap its reset button, and drag the file onto the USB drive that appears. If the copy dialog reports an error at the very end, that is the drive vanishing as the switch reboots; the update still succeeded.
- Settings survive updates either way.
The battery percentage looks wrong
- While charging, the reading is capped at 99 because a charging cell's voltage does not reliably indicate fill level.
- After a full charge the switch holds 100 until the cell relaxes, then the number eases down slowly rather than jumping. That is by design.
- A cell that measures 4.15 to 4.20 V after charging is full and healthy.
Does the app collect any data?
No. There are no accounts, no analytics, and no ads. The app's one network request checks GitHub for firmware releases, and it can be turned off in the app. The privacy policy has the details.
More resources
- Web setup page (works without the app, in Chrome or Edge, or Bluefy on iOS)
- Build guide and documentation
- Firmware releases
- Apple's Switch Control overview and the guide to actions and recipes